In June, I traveled to Québec City, Canada, for TBEX, a travel blogging conference. Let me tell you, the location couldn’t have been better! Old Québec has this mix of European charm and North American energy that’s hard to describe unless you’ve walked those cobblestone streets yourself. With its historic charm and vibrant French-Canadian culture, it made for a memorable setting to connect with fellow writers and creators in the industry.
After the conference wrapped up, I joined a post-tour familiarization trip (commonly referred to as “FAM trip”) organized by Bonjour Québec and its regional partners. These hosted experiences are designed to give travel media a deeper look at what a destination offers, often spotlighting the places and stories that don’t always make it into guidebooks.
What followed was a few packed days of small towns, outdoor adventures, Indigenous culture, and some incredible food! The itinerary revealed a quieter and more intimate side of the region: one that’s rooted in nature, tradition, and deep local pride.
If you’ve only ever thought of Québec as Old Town and poutine, trust me, there’s way more waiting just outside the city walls. Here’s a closer look at what I experienced and why this region of Québec deserves a spot on your travel radar.
Pre-Conference Explorations: Waterfalls, Wine, and Wilderness
Before the official kickoff at TBEX, I planned a bit of extra time to settle in and start exploring, and I made the most of it! I flew in a day early to explore with a fellow TBEX friend that I met through the travel blogging world. She’s local to Québec City and gave me a personal half-day tour. These are always the best kind of tours!
We made our way to Parc de la Chute-Montmorency to see Montmorency Falls. It was a full sensory overload with roaring water, mist in the air, and a waterfall that’s actually taller than Niagara. From there, we crossed the bridge over to Île d’Orléans for a wine tasting in St-Pierre with stunning views over the river and rolling vineyards. Not bad for a warm-up! Literally, I packed a suitcase full of sweaters because I thought… Québec in the summer. What was I thinking? Always check the weather before you travel!
TBEX offers pre-conference tours for creators to explore the area and get a real feel for the region. I signed up for a full-day adventure to Jacques Cartier National Park, and it was one of the best outdoor hikes! Mind you, I really wasn’t expecting 15K steps just from the park alone!
Just under an hour from the city, the park delivers that full wilderness experience without requiring a long drive or overnight stay. It’s best known for its deep glacial valley, where dramatic cliffs rise up on either side of the Jacques-Cartier River, and the views stretch out in every direction. There’s a mix of hiking options, from quick trails to longer loops, and plenty of places to stop and take in the scenery.
On the trail, it’s not unusual to spot wildlife. You’ll see deer, birds, and if you’re lucky, maybe even a moose in the distance. The terrain ranges from mossy forests to rocky overlooks, and the air feels noticeably cooler and quieter once you’re tucked into the valley.
Starting the week with both local insight and a big dose of nature was exactly what I didn’t know I needed! It eased me into the region with a mix of personal connection and wild space, and made everything that followed feel a little more grounded. Plus, I met some super cool creators!
Old Québec, the Heart of It All
The conference kicked off at the Québec City Convention Centre, a sleek and modern space that somehow manages to feel both efficient and easygoing. It’s right near all the Old Town landmarks, so in between sessions, it was a breeze to step out for a walk, grab a coffee, or just soak up the atmosphere. Inside, it was buzzing with the kind of creative energy you only get when you put a bunch of travel industry people in the same room. It’s big enough to host the crowd, but close enough to everything to keep it all feeling connected.
For the first leg of the trip, I stayed at Hôtel Château Laurier Québec just outside the gates of the fortified city. It hit that sweet spot: close enough to walk everywhere, but just far enough to escape the foot traffic once the day was done. The hotel had a classic and comfortable vibe, with enough modern touches to make it feel like more than just a place to stay between meetings and exploring Québec City. Bonus: The view from my hotel room was lovely, especially in the evening.
One afternoon, I made my way to the Fairmont Château Frontenac, the castle-looking hotel that watches over the city. I didn’t stay there (bucket list, yes please?), but I did carve out time to sit at the bar and enjoy a drink. A mojito, of course! It was one of those classic travel moments, just soaking in the luxury and the history of it all while people-watching from a cozy seat with a view. On the opening night of the conference, we discovered historic Québec City on a guided sightseeing river cruise on the St. Lawrence River. The ultimate way to admire the fortified city!
That stretch in Old Québec was the perfect introduction to history, atmosphere, and just the right blend of structured events and time to explore. The real adventure kicked off when we left the city behind and headed toward the Portneuf region.
Portneuf: River Views, Heritage, and Ecotourism
Once we wrapped up in the city, our small group loaded onto a minibus and headed west toward the Portneuf region. It’s quieter out there; less skyline, more shoreline. What stood out wasn’t just the scenery (though there’s plenty of that), but the way everything felt connected. The history, the villages, and the landscape all pull in the same direction.
Our first stop was the Passe migratoire de la Jacques-Cartier, a salmon observation site tucked along the river. The salmon are a pretty big deal in the Greater Québec Area! There’s a glassed-in area where you can actually watch them swimming upstream, which is both peaceful and kind of mesmerizing. It’s a small, sustainable spot that gives you a close-up look at the region’s ecology.
From there, we followed part of the Chemin du Roy (King’s Path), a historic road that once connected Québec City and Montreal. It’s now a tourist route, and driving along it gives you a real sense of the province’s early settlement history. We stopped at the Cap-Santé wharf to walk a stretch of the Promenade-Fleuve, a coastal trail that offers open views of the shoreline and passes through protected natural areas. It’s a simple walk, but a rewarding one if you’re drawn to quiet and scenic places.
By lunchtime, we were in Deschambault, a postcard-perfect town with stone buildings, quiet streets, and one of my favorite food stops of the trip. We ate at La Dinette du Cap, a cozy café that serves up organic coffee, thoughtful meals, and local drinks. It also doubles as a boutique and a record shop, which gives it a kind of effortless cool without being try-hard.
After lunch, we explored two nearby heritage sites: the Vieux Presbytère de Deschambault, a former rectory turned cultural center, and the Moulin de La Chevrotière, a historic mill now used for art exhibitions. Both are part of a rotating international event that celebrates the use of linen in contemporary art.
This leg of the trip gave us a real sense of place. Portneuf isn’t flashy, but it knows who it is: peaceful, proud, and deeply connected to its land and history.
Nature in the Raw at Parc naturel régional de Portneuf
After lunch in Deschambault, we headed straight into the woods. Our next stop was the Parc naturel régional de Portneuf, a massive protected area known for its cliffs, rivers, and forest trails. It didn’t take long to feel the shift! One minute we were driving past tiny little villages, and the next we were deep in the trees with nothing but fresh air and nature.
We kicked things off with a hike, and the landscape kept changing with every turn. One section brought us up near steep cliffs, another led through forested paths and past caves, and eventually we followed parts of the Sainte-Anne River. There’s no single must-do trail here; you just pick a direction and start walking! There’s plenty of room to explore at your own pace, whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just in it for the fresh air.
The next morning, we grabbed some paddles and set out on Lac Long in kayaks. The water was calm, the views were wide open, and aside from the occasional bird call, everything was still. Nice way to start the day.
We spent the night in Le Pèlerin, one of the park’s rustic group cottages. It’s simple and comfortable, surrounded by forest and close to the trails. Dinner and breakfast were prepared with ingredients from Culture de Saveurs, a local initiative that supports producers in the region. The meals were fresh and seasonal, exactly what you want after a full day outdoors!
Cycling and Dining in Saint-Raymond
After a night surrounded by forest, we traded boots for bikes and headed into Saint-Raymond. But first, lunch! We stopped at Le Roquemont, a cozy spot that combines brewpub vibes with seriously solid food. You can even see the brewing setup through the glass behind the bar, which makes it feel like you’re in on the process. I ordered the fish and chips, and they were delish!
Time to BIKE! We hopped on e-bikes (thank goodness) for a ride along the Vélopiste Jacques-Cartier/Portneuf, a former railway turned cycling trail that runs for 68 kilometers through the region. Luckily, we weren’t riding the entire trail, but even just a short stretch gave us a feel for the place. The path was flat, well-maintained, and surrounded by trees, rivers, and open pockets of wildflowers. With minimal incline, it was approachable even for casual cyclists, and the e-bike boost made the whole experience feel smooth and relaxed. E-bikes are so much fun and easy to get around and see the Québec territory!
That evening, we made our way back to Deschambault for a meal at Myranel. This place is run by chef Mathieu Janes and Marina Marcot, and you can tell right away it’s a passion project. The space is small and inviting, and the menu focuses on Québec terroir. We were served seasonal ingredients from local sourcing with a thoughtful presentation. The food was elegant without trying too hard, and the whole experience felt personal in the best way. A great way to close out a day that had just the right balance of movement and stillness!
Wendake: Immersion in First Nations Culture
The final stretch of the trip took us to Wendake, a self-governing Indigenous community just outside Québec City. It’s home to the Huron-Wendat Nation, and while it’s close in distance, the experience feels completely distinct. Wendake combines tradition with modern Indigenous tourism in a way that feels intentional and alive, not preserved or staged.
We started by exploring Old Wendake, a small but meaningful area where craft shops line the streets and Wendat art and design take center stage. You won’t find mass-produced souvenirs here. What’s for sale reflects the community’s pride, history, and craftsmanship. It’s also a chance to meet artists and makers face to face, which makes everything you see or buy feel more connected to the place.
Then came one of the most memorable parts of the trip, a storytelling session inside the longhouse. We gathered around a fire in a space built to reflect traditional Huron-Wendat architecture. A storyteller from the community led us through creation stories, star legends, and cultural teachings passed down through generations. It was quiet, intense, and deeply rooted in a worldview shaped by nature and ancestry. One of the other groups from the conference was staying in the long house overnight, which would be a very unique experience.
Lunch was at La Traite, the restaurant located in the Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations, and it lived up to everything I’d heard about it! The setting overlooks the Akiawenrahk River, and the menu draws from Indigenous ingredients and culinary traditions. There’s smoked fish, wild herbs, game meats, and earthy flavors. Everything was elevated, but still grounded in heritage.
Wendake wasn’t overly curated; it felt honest. That’s what made it so impactful. Everything we saw and experienced was tied to living tradition, told by the people who carry it forward.
Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations, A Living Culture
Our last overnight was at the Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations, and it immediately felt different from anywhere else we’d stayed. The building itself draws on longhouse-inspired design, with curved lines, warm wood, and a close connection to the land around it. Set right beside the Akiawenrahk River, it’s quiet and peaceful without feeling hidden away.
That evening started with a welcome ceremony in the lobby, with cocktails and a traditional Wendat dance performance that brought everyone together, followed by a very unique experience. A visit to the area offers the unique opportunity to connect with Huron-Wendat culture through hands-on craftsmanship, specifically by creating your own piece of jewelry using traditional materials and techniques. Our Indigenous artisan was warm, spirited, & full of personality. She shared the cultural significance of elements like beads, leather, feathers, and natural stones, which each of us thoughtfully selected to create our own piece. It was a meaningful and engaging hands-on experience!
Dinner that night was hosted at an Indigenous-owned restaurant called Sagamité. It’s named after the hearty soup made from corn, beans, and squash that has long been a staple in First Nations cuisine. The food leaned into comfort: rich flavors, seasonal ingredients, and an interesting backstory. After a day full of meaning and connection, it felt like the right kind of meal to close it out!
The finale and possibly my favorite was the Onhwa’ Lumina. This nighttime experience is set along a forest trail and uses light, sound, and projection to tell the story of the Wendat Nation. It’s not a show, it’s more like walking through a living dream built from collective memory. As you move from one section to the next, the forest glows and shifts, voices rise and fall, and the whole thing wraps around you in a way that’s hard to put into words. It was immersive, emotional, and the perfect way to end the journey.
Food and Flavors to Remember
Let’s talk FOOD, because while the landscapes were stunning and the history runs deep, the flavors deserve their own itinerary. I didn’t get to try nearly as many spots as I wanted to (always the trade-off with a packed schedule), but the ones I did experience were memorable. Guess it means I need to visit again! From woodsy brewpubs to Indigenous fine dining, Québec’s culinary scene feels like a love letter to the land.
La Bûche
La Bûche is loud, cozy, and gloriously unapologetic about its Québécois comfort food. It’s where you go for classic poutine, tourtière, maple-glazed everything, and the must-try Sugar Shack Plate. Yes, I did it! This dish is basically Québec’s greatest hits on one glorious brunch board: eggs, cretons, potatoes, sausages, baked beans, pancakes, and a generous pour of maple syrup to tie it all together. It’s sweet, salty, messy, and entirely satisfying! Perfect for brunch, especially before a day of exploring. I ordered for myself to see what the fuss was all about, and it did not disappoint!!
Oh, and while we’re talking about the atmosphere, don’t skip a trip to the restroom. It’s shared and just as on-brand as the rest of the place. The sink is an actual clawfoot tub! Weirdly charming and somehow fitting.
Chez Rioux & Pettigrew
A little outside the old city walls, in the Saint-Roch district, Chez Rioux & Pettigrew is what happens when a bistro and a curiosity cabinet have a very delicious baby. The dining room is filled with vintage travel finds and mismatched furniture, and the food… let’s just say it’s a place where the tasting menu is worth the splurge.
Their wine list leans private-import, and their cocktails are creative without being gimmicky. They even brew their own rye IPA. Inventive, seasonal, and full of unexpected pairings, this spot is where Québec’s culinary future plays with its past.
Casse-Crêpe Breton
This one is tiny, unassuming, and totally charming. Casse-Crêpe Breton is an Old Town staple where crepes are made right in front of you, and the smell alone is enough to stop you mid-walk. Go savory (ham, cheese, egg) or sweet (Nutella), it doesn’t really matter! Drinks here are cozy: cappuccinos, hot chocolates, cider, milkshakes, and a decent glass of wine. Go early to beat the crowds, or lean into the wait and people-watch with a café au lait in hand.
Légende
If Québec’s forests had a tasting menu, this would be it. The concept is “boreal cuisine” and traces culinary roots from Québec’s earliest First Nations traditions to its contemporary food scene. Everything on the menu highlights ingredients from the region’s rivers, woods, and fields. There are wild mushrooms, smoked fish, and herbs you probably walked past on a hike. The six-course menu changes with the seasons, and there’s a full wine pairing option (plus non-alcoholic pairings for a thoughtful twist).
Marché Public de Deschambault
If you find yourself in Deschambault on a Saturday, go hungry! This seasonal public market is a local favorite, with producers from all over Portneuf bringing in cheeses, charcuterie, maple treats, and fresh bread. It’s more of a grazing situation than a sit-down place, but if you’re into snacking as a sport (guilty!), this market is your field day. Grab a bit of everything, walk the riverfront, and call it lunch.
Bistro La Cohue
Slightly off the tourist radar and all the better for it, Bistro La Cohue is one of those neighborhood spots that locals rave about but don’t necessarily advertise. The vibe is laid-back French elegance with a menu that’s quietly confident: duck confit, fresh pastas, beautiful desserts. It feels special without trying too hard. If you’re craving a slower-paced dinner after a busy day of exploring, this is where you go to exhale.
Boutique Browsing and Retail Finds
When it came to shopping, I was pleasantly surprised by how well Québec City delivers on small-batch charm and boutique variety without feeling like you’re in a commercialized tourist trap. After all that outdoor exploring and conference buzz, a little retail therapy was exactly the right pace.
La Maison Simons
You can’t skip Simons, it’s practically a Québec institution! Founded in 1840 and still going strong, it’s the go-to department store for a mix of casual fashion, home decor, and fresh local design. I picked up a few summer pieces and was impressed by both the quality and reasonable prices! The staff were helpful and friendly, always a plus when shopping.
Quartier Petit Champlain
The whole Petit Champlain district is basically one long storefront worth exploring. This historic quarter is packed with indie shops selling handmade jewelry, artisanal home goods, and creative souvenirs you won’t find in a mall. Shop at your own pace and pick up a piece that feels meaningful, not mass-produced.
La Boutique de Noël de Québec
It could be summer outside, but inside La Boutique de Noël de Québec, it’s in full holiday mode! This year-round Christmas store is packed with festive ornaments, cozy décor, and Québec-made gifts that feel more charming than kitschy.
Boutique Métiers d’Art du Québec
If you’re after authentic Québec-made crafts, this is the place to go. It’s filled with ornamental objects, hand-blown glass, artisanal accessories, and even clever kitchenware, all made by local artisans. Small, thoughtful, and beautifully inspired by Québec’s creativity.
Les Trafiquants d’Art
This boutique-meets-gallery focuses on local artists and limited-edition prints, with a vibe that’s more cool studio than tourist shop. From modern illustrations to small framed works, it’s the place to find something unique and meaningful, especially if you’re souvenir-averse.
Why I will be visiting Québec City Again- Winter Carnival Dreams
I’m already planning to return when the snow starts falling. The QuébecWinter Carnival has officially made its way onto my travel wishlist!
It’s one of the largest and oldest winter festivals in the world, with roots going all the way back to 1894. The whole city gets swept up in it: night parades with glowing floats, snow baths (yes, actual people voluntarily rolling in the snow), ice canoe races across a frozen river, and enough maple taffy to keep your sweet tooth busy for days. The energy looks electric, even at sub-zero.
How about Bonhomme, the official ambassador of the carnival! He might look like a friendly snowman in a sash and red toque, but there’s more to him than that. The traditional ceinture fléchée sash he wears is a nod to the workers who used to wrap it around their waists for warmth and back support during long, freezing days outdoors. It’s the perfect symbol for the way Québec embraces winter. Bonhomme shows up at every event as a reminder that winter isn’t something to suffer through. I love this!
The more I learn about it, the more I understand the appeal. The idea of bundling up, leaning into the cold, and seeing the city fully transformed… I’m totally into it! I’ve done the warm-weather Québec trip, now I want the snow version with Bonhomme leading the charge!
From Tourist Québec to Real Territory
Looking back, this trip was more than just a conference with a few days of sightseeing. It was a gradual shift in perspective of this area. It started in Old Québec, with its iconic architecture and colonial history, and moved outward into forests, river trails, and communities with stories that go far deeper than anything in a travel brochure.
Each stop layered something new: nature, food, heritage, and especially the voices of the Wendat people, who shared their traditions not as a performance, but as something still very much alive.
What stood out most wasn’t any one place, it was how the entire region fits together. The landscapes are beautiful, yes, but it’s the people, the history, and the sense of connection to land and culture that stay with you.
If you’re planning a visit to Québec City, don’t just stop at the old town walls. There’s so much waiting just beyond them in Portneuf, Wendake, and along every back road in between. Take the detour, stay a little longer, and let the region unfold!