This Spa-Girl Hiked Arizona’s Hardest Trail in June (And Lived to Tell About It)

There is a moment when you finally step into the heart of Coyote Buttes North, and the world turns completely orange, red, and gold.

The canyon walls twist and curve so sharply that they literally look like a roaring, bright orange wave that was instantly turned to stone. 

It is, without a doubt, one of the world’s most visually spectacular natural wonders.

But if I’m being completely honest, standing there, I didn’t just feel awe – I felt a massive, overwhelming wave of relief. We made it!

Holy crap. I did it!

To understand why this moment was so monumental for me, you have to know a little bit about me: I am NOT a hiker. I repeat, I am not a hiker! Not even close.

I am definitely more of a luxury spa experience kind of traveler. My idea of a perfect trip involves boutique hotels, slow wellness retreats, and beautifully curated itineraries… absolutely NOT roughing it in the desert in 100-degree temperatures.

So you might be thinking, how did I end up in the middle of the Arizona desert?

It all started when my photographer friend, Paul Is Everywhere, invited me to join his photography travel adventure. Without really looking into what the trek actually involved, I blurted out, “Sure, I’m in!”

That eventually lead me to one of the hardest things I’ve ever done.

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The Point of No Return: When “Yes” Becomes “You’re Committed”

When I initially committed to the hiking adventure, I was riding a wave of pure excitement. Then the reality of a June hike in the Arizona/Utah desert started to set in.

As my hiking date got closer, I started diving deep into the research, reading about the blistering triple-digit heat, the completely exposed terrain, and the exhausting miles of soft sand. 

Panic hit me!

To be completely transparent, I wanted to say HELL NO! I wanted to back out and give my spot to someone who was more qualified and had a burning desire to hike.

But the desert has a funny way of holding you to your choices.

Access to Coyote Buttes North is strictly limited by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), and only 64 hikers are allowed each day through a lottery permit system. Once your permit is issued under your legal name, that’s it. There is no backing out.

There are no refunds, no transfers, and no rewriting the paperwork. You can’t pass your spot to any other person or postpone it for a cooler month.

I had to face it or throw in the towel completely and lose the opportunity – and my money.

Sweat, Tears, and Spirits: The Emotional Weight of the Desert

Because I couldn’t back out, the hike became so much more than just a physical challenge. It turned into an intense, deeply spiritual journey.

The sheer isolation of the backcountry strips away all your everyday noise, leaving you completely raw. You MUST be present or you may not make it back! 

As one of my fellow hikers, Will, said: “I’ve never done something that if I stopped, I would die.”

Out on that trail, I experienced just about every human emotion possible. I cried. I laughed. I sweated. I tripped over uneven slickrock and then laughed at myself for tripping. At times, I questioned why I was even there.

When the heat became overwhelming and the physical strain started to push me into dark corners, the hike turned inward. I started praying. Thank goodness I’m a believer.

I spent many of those miles talking out loud to my loved ones, especially to my Dad, who isn’t on this Earth anymore. For reasons I still can’t fully explain, I felt closer to the people I’ve lost while standing in that vast, quiet wilderness.

I leaned on memories, love, and a strength I didn’t even know I still had just to keep putting one foot in front of the other.

The desert takes a lot out of you, but it leaves space for something beautiful to fill.

What the Trail Is Really Like: Distance & Logistics

Before lace hits the sand, you need to understand the structural boundaries of this hike.

The Permit: Entry is strictly limited by the BLM to preserve the fragile sandstone. You must secure a permit via the advanced or daily lottery on Coyote Buttes North Lottery (The Wave, Arizona). No permit, no entry. You will be heavily fined if caught without a permit.

The Distance: A 6.4-mile round trip from the Wire Pass Trailhead, though exploring the alcoves and secondary waves easily pushes it past 7.5 miles.

The Terrain: A mix of deep, energy-sapping sand washes and steep, uneven slickrock. There are no signs, cairns, or manicured trails. The hike itself transitions through three distinct phases, each offering its own challenges.

Step 1: The Wash (0.5 Miles)

You will register at the Wire Pass Trailhead box and cross the road into a wide, sandy river wash. The walking here is flat but soft. Pay close attention to the right-hand wall.

About half a mile in, a BLM sign marks the entrance to the permitted area, and you will leave the wash to begin a gentle climb onto the open slickrock.

Step 2: The Open Slickrock & Landmarks

Once you leave the wash, you are entirely exposed to the elements. You will traverse massive fields of exposed sandstone, navigating by sight toward large, dome-shaped buttes in the distance.

The ground is pitched at an angle, which puts a unique strain on your ankles and knees. 

Step 3: The Final Sandy Push

Before you reach the entrance, the terrain drops you into one last stretch of deep, loose sand dunes. It feels like climbing a snow bank in slow motion, and under a mounting morning sun, it will test your stamina.

Keep your eyes on the massive vertical crack in the red ridge directly ahead – that is the gateway.

The Heroes in Hiking Boots

If there is one thing I learned out there in the triple digits, it’s this: EGO has NO place in the desert!

About two-thirds of the way through the hike, the sheer intensity of the June sun began to take its toll.

The heat doesn’t just beat down from above. It radiates off the slickrock beneath your feet until it feels like you’re walking across a giant stovetop. 

My legs felt like lead. Every step through the deep sand drained a little more energy, and I hit that invisible wall where your body is still moving, but your mind starts to second-guess everything.

Enter our two absolutely heroic local guides: Super hero’s Yermo and Brand. These two men saved our lives! In my opinion, a guide is essential!

These guys didn’t just know the route – they knew exactly how to read a person. Sensing that the desert elements were starting to win, Brand kept an eye on me with total sincerity and offered to literally carry me out if I needed it. 

When I insisted I could keep going, he didn’t miss a beat. He gently took the weight right off my shoulders and threw my backpack onto his own rig to give my body a much-needed break. 

I did have some resistance when he offered because I didn’t want to be “the weakest link” in the group, but that moment changed everything for me.

Having that backpack lifted allowed me to catch my breath, regulate my temperature, and find the grit to keep pushing forward with our crew. 

If you are on the fence about hiring an authorized guide for a summer permit, let my experience be your sign to just do it.

Yes, they show you the best photography angles and handle the off-grid navigation, but more importantly they are your ultimate insurance policy. 

They bring extra emergency water, first aid kit, and the seasoned expertise to turn a borderline medical emergency into a story of triumph. Asking for help isn’t a failure, it’s the smartest strategy for survival.

The Rescue Reality Check (Read This Twice)

This is the part I think many people underestimate.

You need to understand that you are entering a total wilderness area. If you get into trouble out here, there are no emergency vehicles, no cell service, no helicopter landing pads, and no medical evacuation protocols. 

If you go down, there is no ambulance coming to save you. You have to walk out on your own two feet, or rely entirely on the people you are with to get you out alive. 

For me, the biggest lesson wasn’t that I needed to become tougher. It was that I needed to become smarter.

Surviving an adventure isn’t about proving how strong you are. It’s about knowing when to lean on the people around you.

The Ultimate Reward: Stepping Into the Swirl

When we finally squeezed through that last sandy gap and stepped into the heart of The Wave, every ounce of exhaustion vanished.

Because we started before sunrise – we left our hotel at 4:30 a.m. – we reached the formation before the harsh, vertical midday sun flooded the canyon. That gave us soft shadows that beautifully accentuated the deep reds, purples, and pinks of the rock layers.

The thin ridges of sandstone (called “fins”) are incredibly delicate and took millions of years to form. Watch your step, avoid treading on thin edges, and keep your gear close.

The view was absolutely breathtaking! Honestly, the scenery wasn’t even the best part.

The best part was looking around at my new friends, our incredible guides, and realizing that we had stared down one of the most grueling summer environments in the country and conquered it together.

We stepped completely out of our comfort zones, looked a bucket-list challenge in the eye, and knocked it out of the park. As I write this, it brings tears to my eyes.  

The Aftermath: The Post-Hike Spiral

The journey didn’t end when we made it back to the car. In many ways, that was just the beginning.

The true finale happened back at the hotel, and it’s a part of the journey I think is so important to share because extreme adventure leaves an impact on your body long after the hike is over.

I took a shower, crawled into bed, and suddenly, the adrenaline wore off. I was freezing. I had intense shivers, my hair was still wet from the shower, and the AC in the room was cranked down as low as possible.

Naturally, instead of doing the smart thing and resting, I did what so many of us do… 

I picked up my phone and went down a massive internet rabbit hole.

Within minutes of looking up my symptoms, I had convinced myself something was seriously wrong. I started searching for the nearest urgent care and mentally preparing myself for the possibility that I needed emergency treatment.

I was in full panic mode.

In a moment of desperation, I reached out to my fellow hiker and dear friend, Jane. She came over to my room, sat with me, and calmly talked me off the ledge.

Instead of feeding the panic, we dialed into something we’ve been practicing together over the past several months: PMA – Present Moment Awareness.

I put my phone down. I focused on my breathing. I consciously anchored my mind to the exact room I was sitting in, focusing entirely on being present, grounded, and alive.

Within just a few minutes, the psychological fog cleared. My breathing slowed, the shivering was completely gone, and I was back to my normal self. 

NOTE TO SELF: Step away from the search bar! After a grueling trek, your body needs to recalibrate, and googling symptoms while exhausted will only skyrocket your anxiety. That said, always trust your gut if you or a friend genuinely need real medical attention—just leave the internet diagnosis out of it and focus on recovery.

P.S. I’m NOT a medical professional – just sharing my own personal experience.

Planning Your Own Wave Hike

The Wave is located in the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument on the Arizona/Utah border. Most hikers choose to base themselves out of either Page, Arizona (about 45 minutes east of the trailhead) or Kanab, Utah (about an hour west).  

To get to the trailhead from Page, you’ll take US-89 West for about 34 miles, then turn south onto House Rock Valley Road that twists and turns.

Be prepared, it’s a dirt road that can get incredibly rugged, rutted, and washboarded. A 4×4 or high-clearance vehicle is highly recommended if you’re driving it yourself!

KEEP IN MIND: Arizona doesn’t adhere to daylight saving time and Utah does. It can get a bit confusing.

Where to Stay Before & After the Hike

The Luxury Peak

Amangiri (Canyon Point, UT)

If you want the ultimate, ultra-exclusive wellness sanctuary to heal your mind and body after the desert heat, this is it.

It blends seamlessly into the red rock landscape just outside Page and offers world-class spa treatments that you will absolutely crave after this hike.  

Before you look, be prepared for sticker shock! I would have loved to stay… but if you look at the price tag, you will understand. 

Contact me directly to stay at this luxury property.

The Glamping Experience

Under Canvas Lake Powell Grand Staircase

For a gorgeous, elevated outdoor vibe that lets you stay connected to nature without sacrificing a comfortable bed, upscale linens, and a private bathroom.

The Reliable Boutique/Mid-Range

Hyatt Place Page / Lake Powell

Spacious rooms, stellar views of the canyon landscape, and excellent air conditioning (which, as you know, you will appreciate!). Great for a comfortable, stress-free basecamp.

The Budget-Friendly Base

Red Canyon Cabins (Kanab, UT) or Wingate by Wyndham (Page, AZ)

Clean, comfortable, and highly functional options that give you a great place to rest your head and prep your packs without breaking the bank.

Where to Fuel Up

Big John’s Texas BBQ

Before or after sweating out all your calories, nothing hits the spot quite like a mountain of savory protein. Our group met the night before the hike, and me being a BBQ snob, I was skeptical.

To my surprise, the  brisket, sausage, ribs and sides were absolutely delicious. Plus the live music is so much fun!

The Rustic Thistle

A fantastic spot for fresh, high-quality, and comforting dishes with a wonderful local charm. Perfect for a restorative post-hike dinner with your crew. Try the fried olives! 

What to Pack

When you’re burning an incredible amount of energy in extreme heat, food isn’t just a comfort, it’s fuel.

You cannot rely on standard hiking fare like dry granola bars or sugary candy, which are hard to swallow when your mouth is dry and can cause sugar crashes.

Salty & Savory Snacks: Think pretzels, salted nuts, pickles, and beef jerky. Your body loses massive amounts of salt through sweat, and eating savory, sodium-rich foods keeps your energy levels stable.

The Perfect Lunch: Pack a dense, high-protein sandwich (like turkey and cheese) wrapped tightly, or wraps that won’t fall apart. Put everything in an insulated cooler bag inside your backpack with ice packs. 

Quick Energy Fruits: Apples and squeeze pouches of applesauce or fruit purée are fantastic because they provide natural sugars and hydration that are easy to digest on the move.

PRO TIP: Don’t eat your lunch in the main Wave amphitheater. There’s no shade and you’ll bake under the direct sun.

Walk a little farther to one of the nearby alcoves or secondary formations where you’ll find shaded areas. The towering rock walls here cast deep, natural shadows during the late morning and early afternoon. 

Sitting on the cool slickrock in the shade, surrounded by those magnificent swirling patterns while sharing lunch with our crew, was one of the most magical parts of the entire day. 

But to be honest, my mind was thinking NOW we have to trek back and it’s even hotter! 

Gear Checklist: What Kept Us Alive

Here is the exact non-negotiable gear that saved our skin:

The 1-Gallon Minimum: We all carried four liters of liquid. Half of that was plain water in a hydration bladder for constant sipping, and the other half was a rigid insulated bottle packed with ice and heavy-duty electrolytes. Plain water won’t cut it when you’re sweating this much; you have to replace the salt.

The Sun Armor: The desert isn’t the place for tank tops and shorts. We wore lightweight, UPF 50+ long-sleeve sun hoodies, wide-brimmed hats, polarized sunglasses, and sunscreen. Protecting your skin from direct exposure keeps your core body temperature significantly lower.

Mist Spray: This saved me and my face. I used it many, many times throughout the hike. A quick spritz cooled me down instantly and kept my skin from drying out completely in that heat.

Rubber-Tipped Trekking Poles: Essential for navigating the steep, angled slickrock without damaging the fragile, ancient sandstone fins. Note: You must use rubber tips to protect the rock!  

FYI: If you aren’t comfortable using trekking poles, our guides suggested not to take them.

The Final Lesson: The Magic of the Mindset Shift

Looking back on the sweat, the shivers, the prayers, and pure exhaustion, I realized the greatest reward of this trip didn’t come from a camera lens. 

It came from the shift that happened inside me.

As someone who genuinely loves comfort and carefully curated spaces, it is so easy to stay inside the boundaries of what is warm, predictable, and safe.

But growth doesn’t happen there.

The moments that truly change the fabric of who we are only happen when we dare to step completely out of our comfort zones.

When we sign up for something that scares us, push through the blinding heat, and choose to keep moving forward even when our legs beg us to stop… that is where we find out what we are really made of.

Hiking The Wave in June was deeply uncomfortable, physically punishing, and at times, utterly terrifying.

It was also an unforgettable, spiritual, emotional, and physically awakening experience that forced me to dig deeper than I ever have before.

I survived the desert. I conquered triple-digit temperatures. Most importantly, I proved something to myself.

I am so incredibly proud of the woman who didn’t let panic win, who leaned on her friends, and who stood in the center of that magnificent swirl knowing she earned every single step it took to get there.

If you find yourself staring down a challenge that makes your stomach drop and your mind panic, let this be your sign to say YES anyway. 

Step into the fire. Do something unforgettable, uncomfortable, and wild. 

Trust the journey, trust your hiking crew, practice your own present moment awareness, and get ready to prove to yourself just how powerful you really are.

You’ve got this!